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The appearance of exuberant patriots in 1861 will become a far cry from the battle-hardened and war-weary veterans stacking arms in 1865. Their journey in between sees them through highs of receiving new gear and lows of marching in bedraggled uniforms. Over the course of the conflict, a multitude of efforts are made by various government and citizen agencies to clothe and equip “their boys in the field” as best as possible.

The guidelines below serve as a general frame of reference for a generic portrayal of infantrymen serving in the Army of Northern Virginia from 1861 to 1865. The AVG applies these guidelines when there is no other guidance that applies more specifically to a particular unit, time, and place.

In common parlance used in “the hobby”, the war can be broken down into three phases:

Early-War
April 1861 – May 1862

Mid-War
June 1862 – December 1863

Late-War
January 1864 – April 1865

It is advised that one start with building and honing an impression that works for Mid-War portrayals, as most events tend to focus on the events that took place during this phase. In doing so, you can also technically stretch most components of a Mid-War impression into Late-War events. You can also “backdate” some items in a Mid-War kit to meet Early-War standards (i.e. applying black tape or facings to a “Type 2” Richmond jacket, thus turning it into a “Type 1” in a pinch). As you evolve in your living history journey, you will eventually want to acquire a second garment to allow for greater flexibility, but most of the foundational elements of a Mid-War impression span the entirety of the conflict.

This closet evidences a range of garments spanning from civilian coats and Federal uniforms to Confederate items. The CS items vary from “Cadet Gray” to logwood-dyed jeans, satinette, and the darker blue-gray kersey known as English Army Cloth.

The biggest factors to consider in as impression is the ratio of domestic to imported materials and goods. Records show that Savannah, Georgia was importing British arms and accouterments in 1862 ahead of the Seven Days Battles around Richmond. As such, some imported items like hats and accouterments can be permissible depending on the event/unit portrayal. Longstreet’s Corps is the first of the ANV to receive English Army Cloth (EAC) uniforms in the Spring of 1863 ahead of the Gettysburg Campaign. There is documentation of state-issue garments at the Battle of Cedar Creek in October, 1864. States such as Georgia and North Carolina successfully clothed their troops well into the conflict – the latter of which had warehouses full of unissued uniform goods when they were captured during the final stages of the war.

As such, the AVG offers four stages of material culture evolution to consider when aligning a “generic ANV” impression with the three stages of the war. The Mid-War phase can be broken down into halves defined by the Spring of 1863 when EAC is issued to Longstreet’s Corps. Prior to this, one’s “Mid-War impression” should consist largely of domestic materials and goods with some imported accouterments (again, the use of imported gear and/or captured Federal items is very dependent on unit, time, and place research). If the impression or event is focused on the Gettysburg Campaign or beyond, EAC is more permissible, though domestics are still very appropriate.

  • HEADGEAR
    • Preferred: Citizen’s hat
    • Acceptable: Forage cap or kepi in domestic cloth
    • Acceptable: Imported hat if that is all you have
    • Sparing use of branch insignia, regimental numbers, or company letters
    • No Masonic, Irish, or fraternal pins, feathers, etc.
  • JACKET
    • Preferred: RCB Type 1 (RD1) jacket or frock coat in domestic cloth
    • Acceptable: Plain commutation jacket of domestic cloth
    • Event-Specific: Battle shirts, specialty jackets or frocks, etc.
    • Plain, single-breasted frock of domestic cloth if that is all you have
    • No RD2, RD3 or Tait jackets, English Army Cloth (EAC), or other mid/late-war items
  • PANTS
    • Preferred: CS issue pants in domestic cloth
    • Acceptable: Citizen’s pants of domestic cloth
    • No pants with English Army Cloth (EAC), striped fabric, patterns, in wild colors, patchwork, etc.
  • SHIRT
    • Preferred: CS issue shirt or citizen’s shirt of plain working-class quality
    • Acceptable: Homespun or checked shirt if that is all you have.
    • No shirts with wild patterns, colors, patchwork, etc.
  • FOOTWEAR
    • Preferred: Civilian/CS shoes preferred
    • Acceptable: Federal brogans
    • No camp shoes, artillery/cavalry boots
  • MANUAL OF ARMS
    • Scott’s (1835) – for very early-war events
    • Gilham’s (1860)
    • Hardee’s Revised (1862)
  • WEAPON
    • Preferred: M1816 Springfield (conversion or flint in very early-war cases), M1842 or M1855 Springfield, Richmond
    • Acceptable: P1853 Enfield or M1861 Springfield if it is all you have
    • Event-Specific: belt knives, boot pistols, civilian arms, etc.
    • No two-band short muskets, musketoons, carbines, or lever-actions
    • No leather grips/barrel guards
  • BELTS
    • Preferred: Roller-buckle
    • Acceptable: Forked tongue, billet buckle, Georgia frame
    • Sparing use of oval plates (make sure it is appropriate to Eastern Theater)
    • Spoon-in-wreath and plate buckles reserved for NCOs/officers
    • Please refrain from snake buckles and other import items
  • ACCOUTERMENTS
    • CS manufacture cartridge box may be worn on waist belt or sling
    • CS manufacture cap box worn on waist belt
    • CS manufacture bayonet scabbard worn on waist belt or none
    • No inappropriate box plates and breastplates
    • No Western Theater and US manufacture items
  • CANTEEN
    • Tin Drum, wooden Gardner, or re-issued Federal (smoothside)
    • Please refrain from canteens inappropriate to the Eastern theater, drinking gourds, etc
  • HAVERSACK
    • Natural/white material
    • Acceptable: appropriate painted or rubberized
    • No Federal haversacks unless approved as a re-issued or captured item
    • No haversacks of carpet cloth or carpetbags
  • BLANKET
    • CS/civilian and import wool blankets preferred
    • Civilian coverlets acceptable in warm weather
    • Please refrain from the use of Federal blankets unless that is all you have
    • No patchwork quilts
  • MESS GEAR
    • Tin cup
    • Tin plate
    • Spoon
    • Pocket knife, fork, or knife optional
  • OTHER
    • Blanket roll and CS made knapsacks preferred
    • Imported and framed knapsacks acceptable in limited numbers
    • Please refrain from the use of Federal double-bag knapsacks unless approved as a re-issued or captured item
  • HEADGEAR
    • Preferred: Citizen’s hat
    • Acceptable: Kepi of imported or domestic cloth
    • Acceptable: Imported hat
    • Forage cap if that is all you have
    • No insignia, letters, pins, feathers, etc.
  • JACKET
    • Preferred: RCB Type 2 (RD2) jacket in domestic cloth
    • Acceptable: Plain commutation jacket of domestic cloth
    • Plain, single-breasted frock of domestic cloth if that is all you have
    • No RD1, RD3 or Tait jackets, English Army Cloth (EAC), faced or piped frocks, battle shirts, etc.
  • PANTS
    • Preferred: CS issue pants in domestic cloth
    • Acceptable: Citizen’s pants of domestic cloth
    • No pants with English Army Cloth (EAC), striped cloth, patterns, in wild colors, patchwork, etc.
  • SHIRT
    • Preferred: CS issue shirt
    • Acceptable: Citizen’s shirt of plain working-class quality
    • Homespun or checked shirt if that is all you have.
    • No shirts with wild patterns, colors, patchwork, etc.
  • FOOTWEAR
    • Preferred: Civilian/CS shoes preferred
    • Acceptable: Federal brogans
    • No camp shoes, artillery/cavalry boots
  • MANUAL OF ARMS
    • Gilham’s (1860)
    • Hardee’s Revised (1862) – a circular issued in the Spring of 1863 by the War Department encouraged all units to transition to this manual to standardize across the ANV
  • WEAPON
    • Preferred: M1816 Springfield (conversion), M1842 Springfield, P1853 Enfield, M1854 Lorenz, M1855 or M1861 Springfield
    • No two-band short muskets, musketoons, carbines, or lever-actions
    • No belt knives, pistols, leather grips/barrel guards
  • BELTS
    • Preferred: Roller-buckle
    • Acceptable: Forked tongue, billet buckle, Georgia, or snake buckles
    • Spoon-in-wreath and plate buckles reserved for NCOs/officers
    • Please refrain from oval plates
  • ACCOUTERMENTS
    • CS manufacture cartridge box may be worn on waist belt or sling
    • CS manufacture cap box worn on waist belt
    • CS manufacture bayonet scabbard worn on waist belt or none
    • No inappropriate box plates and breastplates
    • No Western Theater and US manufacture items
  • CANTEEN
    • Tin Drum, wooden Gardner, or re-issued Federal (smoothside)
    • Please refrain from canteens inappropriate to the Eastern theater, drinking gourds, etc
  • HAVERSACK
    • Natural/white material
    • Acceptable: appropriate painted or rubberized
    • No Federal haversacks unless approved as a re-issued or captured item
    • No haversacks of carpet cloth or carpetbags
  • BLANKET
    • CS/civilian and import wool blankets, civilian coverlets acceptable in warm weather
    • Federal blankets when approved as a captured item or if that is all you have
    • No patchwork quilts
  • MESS GEAR
    • Tin cup
    • Tin plate
    • Spoon
    • Pocket knife, fork, or knife optional
  • OTHER
    • Blanket roll and CS made knapsacks preferred
    • Imported and framed knapsacks acceptable in limited numbers
    • Please refrain from the use of Federal double-bag knapsacks unless approved as a re-issued or captured item
  • HEADGEAR
    • Preferred: Citizen’s hat
    • Acceptable: Kepi of imported or domestic cloth
    • Acceptable: Imported hat
    • Forage cap if that is all you have
    • No insignia, letters, pins, feathers, etc.
  • JACKET
    • Preferred: RCB Type 2 (RD2) jacket of imported or domestic cloth
    • Acceptable: Plain commutation jacket of domestic cloth
    • Plain, single-breasted frock of domestic cloth if that is all you have
    • No RD1, RD3 or Tait jackets, faced or piped frocks, battle shirts, etc.
  • PANTS
    • Preferred: CS issue pants of import or domestic cloth
    • Acceptable: Citizen’s pants of domestic cloth
    • No pants with striped fabric, patterns, in wild colors, patchwork, etc.
  • SHIRT
    • Preferred: CS issue shirt
    • Acceptable: Citizen’s shirt of plain working-class quality
    • Homespun or checked shirt if that is all you have.
    • No shirts with wild patterns, colors, patchwork, etc.
  • FOOTWEAR
    • Preferred: Civilian/CS shoes preferred
    • Acceptable: Federal brogans
    • No camp shoes, artillery/cavalry boots
  • MANUAL OF ARMS
    • Hardee’s Revised (1862)
  • WEAPON
    • Preferred: P1853 Enfield or 1861 Springfield
    • Acceptable: M1816 Springfield (conversion), M1842 Springfield, M1854 Lorenz, or M1855 Springfield
    • No two-band short muskets, musketoons, carbines, or lever-actions
    • No belt knives, pistols, leather grips/barrel guards
  • BELTS
    • Preferred: Roller-buckle
    • Acceptable: Forked tongue, billet buckle, Georgia, or snake buckles
    • Spoon-in-wreath and plate buckles reserved for NCOs/officers
    • Please refrain from oval plates
  • ACCOUTERMENTS
    • CS manufacture cartridge box may be worn on waist belt or sling
    • CS manufacture cap box worn on waist belt
    • CS manufacture bayonet scabbard worn on waist belt or none
    • No inappropriate box plates and breastplates
    • No Western Theater and US manufacture items
  • CANTEEN
    • Tin Drum, wooden Gardner, or re-issued Federal (smoothside or bullseye)
    • Please refrain from canteens inappropriate to the Eastern theater, drinking gourds, etc
  • HAVERSACK
    • Natural/white material
    • Acceptable: appropriate painted or rubberized
    • No Federal haversacks unless approved as a re-issued or captured item
    • No haversacks of carpet cloth or carpetbags
  • BLANKET
    • CS/civilian and import wool blankets, civilian coverlets acceptable in warm weather
    • Federal blankets when approved as a captured item or if that is all you have
    • No patchwork quilts
  • MESS GEAR
    • Tin cup
    • Tin plate
    • Spoon
    • Pocket knife, fork, or knife optional
  • OTHER
    • Blanket roll and CS made knapsacks preferred
    • Imported and framed knapsacks acceptable in limited numbers
    • Please refrain from the use of Federal double-bag knapsacks unless approved as a re-issued or captured item
  • HEADGEAR
    • Preferred: Citizen’s hat
    • Acceptable: Kepi of imported or domestic cloth
    • Acceptable: Imported hat
    • No forage caps, insignia, letters, pins, feathers, etc.
  • JACKET
    • Preferred: RCB Type 2 (RD2) or Type 3 (RD3) jackets in English Army Cloth (EAC) or domestic cloth, Peter Tait jackets (especially if faced in infantry blue)
    • Acceptable: Plain, single-breasted frock of domestic cloth
    • No RD1 or commutation jackets, faced or taped frocks, battle shirts, etc.
  • PANTS
    • Preferred: CS issue pants of import or domestic cloth
    • Acceptable: Citizen’s pants of domestic cloth
    • No pants with striped fabric, patterns, in wild colors, patchwork, etc.
  • SHIRT
    • Preferred: CS issue shirt
    • Acceptable: Citizen’s shirt of plain working-class quality
    • Homespun or checked shirt if that is all you have.
    • No shirts with wild patterns, colors, patchwork, etc.
  • FOOTWEAR
    • Preferred: Civilian/CS shoes preferred
    • Acceptable: Federal brogans
    • No camp shoes, artillery/cavalry boots
  • MANUAL OF ARMS
    • Hardee’s Revised (1862)
  • WEAPON
    • Preferred: P1853 Enfield or M1861 Springfield
    • Acceptable: M1842 Springfield, M1854 Lorenz, M1855 Springfield, or Richmond
    • No two-band short muskets, musketoons, carbines, or lever-actions
    • No belt knives, pistols, leather grips/barrel guards
  • BELTS
    • Preferred: Roller-buckle
    • Acceptable: Forked tongue, billet buckle, Georgia, or snake buckles
    • Spoon-in-wreath and plate buckles reserved for NCOs/officers
    • Please refrain from oval plates
  • ACCOUTERMENTS
    • CS manufacture cartridge box may be worn on waist belt or sling
    • CS manufacture cap box worn on waist belt
    • CS manufacture bayonet scabbard worn on waist belt or none
    • No inappropriate box plates and breastplates
    • No Western Theater and US manufacture items
  • CANTEEN
    • Tin Drum, wooden Gardner, or re-issued Federal (bullseye)
    • Please refrain from canteens inappropriate to the Eastern theater, drinking gourds, etc
  • HAVERSACK
    • Natural/white material
    • Acceptable: appropriate painted or rubberized
    • No Federal haversacks unless approved as a re-issued or captured item
    • No haversacks of carpet cloth or carpetbags
  • BLANKET
    • CS/civilian and import wool blankets, civilian coverlets acceptable in warm weather
    • Federal blankets when approved as a captured item or if that is all you have
    • No patchwork quilts
  • MESS GEAR
    • Tin cup
    • Tin plate
    • Spoon
    • Pocket knife, fork, or knife optional
  • OTHER
    • Blanket roll and CS made knapsacks preferred
    • Imported and framed knapsacks acceptable in limited numbers
    • Please refrain from the use of Federal double-bag knapsacks unless approved as a re-issued or captured item

Make sure everything fits, can be worn properly, and is positioned/adjusted correctly. If not it can cause issues when drilling, performing as a soldier, and make you uncomfortable. Between this and not “looking the part” will take away from an otherwise quality impression!

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